December 11, 2012 - Reminder

THIS ARTICLE describes why I would never drive in Kenya.  I have a feeling and perception that it is better in Tanzania which is why I drive now.  But yikes!

LMW

December 10, 2012 - Winter Wonderland

Our first days in Denmark, including: picking out a Christmas tree, playing in the snow (eating it, building snowmen, and eating it), and baking gingerbread cookies (please note that Grace is trying out a new hairdo).  We also went to the library (no photos taken).  We are a long way from Dar, and so far it is a great winter holiday!

 

LMW

December 8, 2012 - Annual Travel Trouble

We arrived in Denmark last night, somewhere between 7 and 8 hours later than expected.  Last year we got stuck in Paris; this year it was Amsterdam!  It wasn't sooooo bad...the big snow storm that hit Amsterdam paralized KLM and they cancelled so many flights that hundreds of people needed to be rebooked.  I spent 4 hours of our extended layover STANDING IN LINE to make arrangements.  We were lucky that people took pity on us because of traveling so far with two small kids.  In fact, we were on a wait list for our flight to Denmark (after the first two flights were cancelled)...but so were about 20 other people.  When the guy called our name for official boarding passes he said, "At least we know the baby can sleep at home tonight."

So while it was a long, long wait at the airport, we did get here the same day we planned to.

Highlights of the trip included Noah pulling his own suitcase (at a snail's pace!) all around the airport to the delight of everyone who saw him.  Also Grace is such an incredible flyer that as soon as the plane gets up in the air, she announces, "I'm going to sleep now," and promptly does so.  And the fact that on both trips people were willing to move their sits around so that we could be together and so that Noah could have a seat of his own (even though we didn't pay for one!).

Low lights of the trip (aside from the long delay) included both of our landings.  During the first descent in Amsterdam Grace's ears hurt so much that she screamed for 10 minutes (or more?) straight.  Luckily her Far had packed two pieces of bubble wrap in our carry-on...if we had remembered it earlier her screaming would have subsided much sooner...but once we pulled out the bubble wrap she was happily distracted.   As Kristoffer calls it, "Instant Joy." During our second descent in Denmark Noah decided that he was completely done with traveling and wanted to get off the plane RIGHT NOW. He a marathon temper trantrum (while we tried to keep him "strapped" to us in a seat belt!) for at least 15 minutes.  Everyone else really wanted off that plane too, buddy!  Our other challenge with Noah, the boy who spends 85% of his time wearing nothing but a diaper and a t-shirt, was that we couldn't get him to keep socks and shoes on his feet (He also disliked the jeans he was wearing but gave in on that one much easier).  

Everyone was happy to see Farmor who came with hats, gloves and chocolate! When we got to Farmor's house we ate well and all slept SO well.  Some combination of how dark and quiet it is mixed with our travel lag and complete exhaustion from the day made for a very nice night for all (maybe the longest night our kids have ever slept!).  

There is snow on the ground and Christmas spirit in the air.  The perfect combination!

LMW

December 6, 2012 - And We're Off

We leave for Denmark very late tonight.  We are there for 3 weeks before we go to the US for a long visit as well.

We are bringing lots of things with us:  presents and winter clothes and boots and scarves and socks.  Also de-worming medication, malaria tests and treatment should any of us show get sick with it (it can take weeks or months for symptoms to develop when you get bitten by a malarial mosquito), and newly injected flu vaccinations.  Who knew we required so much medical stuff for just LEAVING the country.

We are leaving Rose and Karen, who are going to Kenya while we are gone,  and Grace's friends at school...she has been telling them for the last two days, "Don't be too sad when I am gone. I will come back for my birthday." Kristoffer is leaving behind work I HOPE.  I am leaving behind the anxieties that come with our daily life.  We are also leaving behind snakes in our garden, mosquitos all around us, and extreme heat and humidity.

We are heading into below-freezing temperatures in Denmark along with snow, from what we hear.   We are prepared for the hustle and bustle of visiting lots of family and friends and perhaps getting a bit exhausted from it all.  We are eager for holiday food and decorations and magic...the comforts of being home for the holidays.  We are going to celebrate Christmas and New Year's with our families that we love.

We are all excited and ready.  

Kwaheri, Tanzania!   See you next year!

LMW

December 5, 2012 - Random

Thought I'd post a few pictures before we fly off into the freezing cold tomorrow night.

A friend just shared these two pictures with me.  Taken in September in a "Back to School" BBQ at school.  Too bad we didn't all look good at the same time!

We decorated for Christmas on Saturday because we hosted a Christmas brunch for some Danish friends on Sunday.  This is the only picture I took of the decorating - Noah and our little tree!

And from the actual party here are two pictures of the Lego tower-building competition Kristoffer faciliated.  Children were not allowed to play until after the official contest.

 (watching the contest below)

Finally, Grace has been taking swimming lessons for a little while now.  It is going very slowly...mostly because she just does not want her face to get wet AT ALL and we are really working on that.  The first teacher she really loved but that lady moved back to South Africa.  This new teacher is not quite as awesome, but they have only had 3 lessons together so I am hoping when we come back they will warm up to each other a bit more. I took these pictures yesterday because I LOVE Grace's swim face.  She is just so serious :)

LMW

December 4, 2012 - Tough(er?) Life

Yesteryday I shared an article about Tanzania.  Today I am sharing an article about Nairobi.  It surprises me, but is also true, that I am still more "in tune" with Kenyan news and politics. I can't really explain it.  

But anyway...the article I am sharing is a reminder of what our daily security concerns were in Kenya.  And even though security is definitely still a concern here in Dar, it is not at the same level as it was in Nairobi.  As much as we liked our time in Kenya (as this journalist also shares), I breathed a huge sigh of relief when I read this article in a state of complete tension and then realized that this is not our life anymore.

LMW

December 3, 2012 - Tough Life

This is kind of a random blog post, but I haven't written much about Tanzania in awhile so I thought I would share something new.  One of the things we have noticed since we moved to Dar is how many people with Albinism (also called "Albinos", although sometimes people think that is a derogatory term, which is not how I intend it) live here.  We noticed some Albinos in Kenya, but here in Dar they are a much bigger population. My sister also just emailed me this article from NPR about Albinism in Tanzania.

Tanzania has one of the highest populations of Albinos in the world: 1 in every 1,400 people is born with Albinism.  To be honest with you, I used to think that being born an African woman would be one of the hardest things to be - because African women have so many challenges to overcome in their lives.  But now I really think that being born an African Albino (an African Albino Woman too?!) would be even more difficult.  

Before I read this article I didn't know that 98% of Tanzanian Albinos die of skin cancer before they are 40 years old.  I also didn't know that the killing of Albinos is worse in Tanzania than any other African country; there have 100 known violent attacks against albinos in the last 6 years.  There are witch doctors who believe in the "magic" of Albino skin and people will kill them for their body parts.  Other people believe they are evil.  

I was encouraged to read that the Government of Tanzania is increasing efforts to support people with Albinism here.  But I also think they have a long way to go.

LMW

November 27, 2012 - Little Scholar

Yesterday we had our parent-teacher conference for Grace.  It was awesome.  

The highlight was that Grace had just colored this picture at school and, completely on her own, wrote the names (if you can see them): Grace (on your right), Mama (bottom right), Far (top left), Noah (under Far), which you can mostly read.  The teacher sitting with Grace at the time was really surprised. Wow!

The teachers we met (2 of 6 who interact with Grace regularly) had so many nice things to say about Grace and I know we walked away beaming with pride.  They think she is mature for her age, great with communication, energetic to tell a story or sing a song in front of the class.  She is also very strong willed, but they have only seen her have a very bad temper (or "go ballistic" as one described it) once. She cries a lot on days when she is very tired, and usually I have warned them that she woke up too early on those days.  She eats very well (our daughter?  Hallelujah!) and responds very well to praise.  Her fine and gross motor skills are great. She no longer has accidents at school (or at home, for that matter).  She loves to play with her girlfriends but is also comfortable doing her own thing.  They say she is very happy - and we said so are we!

LMW 

November 26, 2012 - Still Crazy After All These Years

My parents celebrate their 46th wedding anniversary today.

What great role models they are for my siblings and I...and for the rest of the world too!  No doubt they have had their ups and downs.  Marriage is about compromise and, in their case, involves a lot of disagreements about driving directions and traffic.  But 46 years...many different jobs and addresses and moves...4 kids...10 grandkids...some dogs.  A lot of lot of love, and their own fair share of sorrow too.  But after all these years they still make it look so easy.  

We love you, Mom and Dad.  Happy Anniversary!

LMW

November 23, 2012 - Big! Cool!

Yesterday's highlights include:

*Grace discovering the word "cool."   Everything was cool.

"My picture is so cool, Mama."

"That's a cool skirt."

"Noah looks cool."

(Wait until I teach her to speak "Boston" and say "wicked cool!")

*Noah saying the word "big" for the first time AND putting it together with other words.

"Big ball!"

"Big car!"

What can I say? 

It was a big deal and was very cool!

LMW

November 22, 2012 - Thanks, but no thanks

I usually write a Thanksgiving blog about what I am thankful for: 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011.

But this year I am not going to do that.

The thing is, on a daily basis I am a pretty thankful/grateful/appreciative person...or at least I try to be.  I pray. I write thank-you notes. I work hard to keep in touch with people of importance from my present and past (a few years ago I had the pleasure of a reunion with my nursery school teacher Mrs. Corkadel and had the chance to thank her for giving me such positive first memories of my education.  And thank you for that reunion, Mrs. Duffy!). I keep memories.  I try to teach my children to also have these qualities.

In fact, last year on my blog someone left this comment (and thank you to her for that!):

-------

Wyndago said...

I never met anyone so thankful and I have not even met you.

You have used the word "thanks" (includes the words thankful, thank but excludes the word thanksgiving) 20 times and the word "grateful" twice in your last 11 posts.

Great blog. All beautiful.
---------

But this year is different.  

We aren't with any extended family this year (we didn't celebrate the holiday last year but at least were with family in Denmark!). We were not invited to any holiday celebrations with other Americans today. I went to work, the kids went to school. I am also married to a man for whom this day is not a traditional holiday and who is both a vegetarian and also currently in Uganda.

I am also feeling especially not-thankful that Kyle died and that my sister and her husband have to deal with this holiday without their son.

I do not begrudge anyone else a wonderful day.  But even though there are many things for which I am thankful, I will save my thanksgiving for another day.

LMW

November 21, 2012 - Interview

The website that has been promoting my blog lately, www.expatsblog.com, has interviewed me. 

Please check it out here!

LMW

November 20, 2012 - Starting to Pack...

The countdown is on.  Sixteen days until we leave Dar for seven weeks away (five for Kristoffer).  First stop Denmark.  Next stop USA.  

You know...our usual world tour.

There are many reasons why we are ready for this trip home.  Many. 

Two of them include:

1.  Grace probably has some kind of amoeba (awaiting further tests), which we suspect because she has had two episodes of violent stomach cramps and vomiting within two weeks of each other.  And while she is not as small as she used to be, she doesn't exactly have weight to spare.  We all are probably due for being de-wormed, in fact (it took me years to accept the fact that we live some place where de-worming is reality!).  But I would rather do it when we are going to have a break from the likelihood of getting said amoeba again, so will probably wait until we get to Denmark to do so (although maybe she'll get some other medication before then).  

2.  We found this guy on the outside of Noah's mosquito net the other day when I went in to pick him up after his nap. 

Spider crab.  Crab spider.  Googling indicates that it is not a poisonous bite, but a painful, itchy one.  And if we found one, isn't it likely that there are more?!?  Shiver.

Winter clothes and Christmas presents are nearly packed.  Kristoffer has two more trips before then (first Uganda for 4 days, then Burundi for 3 days) so it will be a busy time until our plane takes off.  But then we'll be wearing winter coats, drinking hot chocolate and NOT worrying about sunblock or malaria for a nice long stretch.  Bring it on!

LMW

November 19, 2012 - The Learning Wheel

First of all, you know me. I love anniversaries.  We left Nairobi one year ago yesterday (November 18th).  Isn't that incredible?  I feel like the year has been so big and complicated and busy and has gone by really, really fast. Wow.

Also, today was Noah's first "parent-teacher" conference at school.  It was supposed to be 30 minutes, but because I am a talker it was more like 65 minutes.  This is the "tool" used as a basis of discussion about his growth and development (if you can see it). 

The goal for Noah (and all kids in his class) is that he will be a "4" (is able to do) by the time he is 3 years old.  For most categories he is a 2 (able to with help) or 3 (almost able to) with an occasional 1 (is not able to do) or 4 already.  I thought the discussion was insightful - they see him do things that I don't see him do (and vice versa) - and thoughtful - his 4 teachers really love him and appreciate his personality. They had so many nice, positive things to say (like if they have ever kids they really hope to get one just like Noah...but of course, they haven't met him at 5:00 am!).  It was a really interesting conference.

Big take aways are that he is sweet and happy (we knew!), that he falls on his head a lot (we knew that too!), and also even though he isn't the youngest in the group anymore he is the smallest still so the other kids sort of see him (and treat him) as the baby of the group.  We're two months away from his second birthday.  That is also very hard to believe!  

Next week is Grace's conference, using the same tool with the goal of being a "4" by the time she is 5 years oldl obviously the "criteria" change with the age group. As I was looking at The Learning Wheel, I was wondering where I would fall in my age-appropriate group.  Maybe I should be a "4" by the time I am...35? 40?  When you're a grown up, is there development in these areas happening that we don't know about?!  

Interesting!

LMW

November 17, 2012 - Ngoma

For the last six weeks at the Nordic School, the kids (particularly Grace) have been learning about Tanzanian culture. They have done singing in Kiswahili, dancing, drumming and crafts along with learning about the flag and eating traditional Tanzanian food once a week.  This has been REALLY fun for Grace and yesterday was their final "project" for the topic.  Called "Ngoma" (which means "dance"), it was a celebration of Tanzanian culture and a celebration of our kids!

Parents had to provide kangas (or "cloth") for each child and the school had someone make traditional clothes out of the material (from what I hear the school paid only $1.90 per child!). Below were my kids getting ready for "Ngoma" (bribed with a lollipop to wake up from their naps).

Noah and his friend Helena before the show.

Noah's class was up first.  I'm sorry the video quality is poor - I was sitting in a bad spot to see Noah's face (he is to the right). But you get the idea.  It was very sweet!

Noah and his classmates getting ready.

Then Grace's class performed 4 different songs.  She was so excited and proud.  It was really fun(ny)!

Grace with the Head Master and her classmates getting ready.

First Song (the funniest and the longest recording).

Second Song (kids dance in pairs or trios).

Third Song (Grace's drum "solo").

Fourth Song (the Tanzanian national anthem).

After the show there was a ribbon cutting ceremony for the Masai hut that the children all built together over several weeks.  They can play in it for the rest of the year.

And some of the older children who come for after school programs showed us how they can jump like a Masai!

There was a man making sugar cane juice on the spot!

And exhibition of the Masai jewelry that the kids made.

I have to say that this event illustrates the best parts of living here.  First, the kids have a "home" culture and community at their Nordic school where Nordic values and traditions are present for them.  But second, there is so much diversity! From the exposure of living here in Tanzania to all of the different cultural elements they get from having friends who are also half-Nordic and half-something-else (American, Tanzanian, Kenya, Dutch, Finnish, British, South African...)...they are just such open-minded little people.  I could not be happier about that.     

Ngoma ilikuwa furaha! (my attempt at saying: Ngoma was fun!)

LMW

November 14, 2012 - Seasons

Nine months into living here, I've decided that there are really two seasons in Dar.

Season 1 (end of June through early September): what I call The Lovely Summer (also called "winter" by the locals).  It is warm but not tooooo hot and humid.  There is a lovely breeze and in the evening sometimes you can even bundle up in a light cardigan if you are outside. You don't worry as much about malaria.  You are never in a state of constant sweat.  It is dreamy, perfect summer weather.

I love this season.

Season 2 (all other months, peaking in December from what I hear): what I call Take Three Cold Showers a Day and Change Your Clothes Even More Often Than That.  I think you can imagine what this season includes. It is hot. It is sticky. It is buggy. I am never not sweating. My kids have weird heat and sweat rashes.

I despise this season.

There are some transitions into and out of these seasons, but they are not distinct enough to be their own seasons.  And throw in a short rainy season (now supposedly, but it hasn't rained in a few days) and a long rainy season (I think that is Mayish?) but they are just subseasons of our current season.

There is a lot to love about living here, and maybe if we moved from Florida we would find this weather a bit more charming.  But wow! I am wearing my second tshirt of the day and it is 9:15 am.  It really makes me miss Nairobi's awesome weather and has us all very excited for the cold of Denmark in a few a weeks (and that says A LOT because normally the weather is not one of Denmark's strengths!).

LMW

November 12, 2012 - On My Own

First of all, while I did not win the expat blog writing contest I entered, it was so heartwarming to read the lovely comments people wrote and see all of the "likes" I had on Facebook.  Thank you so much for your support.  I will try again!

Maybe this week will give me new good blog contest material.  Kristoffer left in the middle of Saturday night for the US (he made it to DC via Istanbul and I hope is sleeping now at my sister Christine's house) and the kids started our week together by waking up at 5:15 am.  By 9 am we had exhausted so many activities, including baking muffins and packing all of their winter clothes for our trip to Denmark next month, that I did resort to an hour of television for Grace (Noah has a very small attention span for TV so it bought me about 15 minutes).  Usually we reserve TV for an afternoon unwind but I was exhausted! Luckily Grace had a play date in the afternoon which got her out of the house and away from asking me, "is Far coming home yet?"

Our very long day also included the worst temper tantrum I have ever seen from either of my children.  You might be surprised to know that it came from Noah, not Grace! For 30 minutes he was the most angry, sad, tired, aggressive, inconsolable toddler I've ever seen.  I even contemplated taking him to the doctor when he was hyperventilating. It was more than bizarre coming from such a sweet, happy, funny, easy going boy. Clearly he is not happy that his best friend has left the country but I am really hoping it was an isolated incident.

Anyway, kids slept all the way until 5:40 this morning and Monday has been going well so far (ok it is not even 9 yet!).  Hope that lasts for the rest of this week! We really look forward to Far coming home again on Saturday.

LMW

November 9, 2012 - Movie Theater Etiquette

Kristoffer and I went to see a movie in the movie theater last night.  It was our first time doing that here in Dar and we haven't actually been to a movie theater since Dec/Jan in the US. That's a long stretch - yikes!  It was a nice treat to see Daniel Craig be sooooo good, and Javier Bardem be sooooo bad.  A little escapism is what I needed.

But the real experience comes from just going to the movies here.  I had completely forgotten the movie theater etiquette (or lack thereof) in East Africa - here in Dar it was the same as it was in Nairobi.  

Highlights include:

1.  Come late.  Up to 40 minutes late.  No worries.  (But really, who misses the first 40 minutes of a BOND movie?!)

2.  Keep your phone turned on and answer calls throughout the movie, talking casually to your friends and family as if you were in the privacy of your own home.   

3.  Talk to your friends and people sitting around you throughout the movie as well.  And don't use a movie theater voice either.  Just talk normally, because that won't disturb anyone.

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It takes some getting used to.  At first it was driving me crazy but then I started to tune out the distractions as I used to do in Kenya.   (But if you, my brother Mark, are reading this...I thought more than once that you might have a nervous breakdown during this experience.)

One difference here is that we didn't have to stand for the national anthem before the show, as we used to do in Nairobi.  I actually kind of missed that tradition.

We went to the newest movie theater here in Dar and it was a good experience...despite all of the busy people around us.  Kristoffer is heading to the US for a week tomorrow night and it was nice to have a date night before he leaves.

LMW

November 7, 2012 - Toy Story

This is a car that Rose made for Noah out of an old milk carton, some bottle caps, toothpicks, and string.  When I saw it - and how much he LOVES LOVES LOVES playing with it - I said to her, "I'm impressed! You're much more creative than I am."

Rose replied, "When you can't afford to buy toys for your child, you just make them."

And my child loves Rose's milk-carton-car as much as the Fisher Price car I bought him.

A nice reality check for me. 

LMW

November 6, 2012 - Election Blog Redux

It is election day in America today so I wanted to blog about voting.  I don't have any experience in Tanzania, but of course the experience we had with the Kenyan election in December 2007 will be with me forever (you'll recall that close to 2,000 people were murdered and 500,000 people were displaced from their homes in violence that erupted throughout the country following a corrupt election).  So I will repost some of what I wrote in January 2008...because the importance of voting...the importance of exercising the right and responsibility and freedom to vote is on my mind.

The full blog is here.  But the highlight about democracy is below:

Finally, a word on democracy. In Kenya, 40% of the population lives in extreme poverty and while they may not have food or water or shelter, they believed they had a vote. They didn't take it for granted and they cast it towards a leader they thought would improve their lives. When you take that away from people, when you tell them that their vote didn't matter, they are left with nothing. That is why young men in the slums are chanting "No Raila, No Peace!" and claiming that they are willing to die for this cause. Odinga may also be a corrupt politician and might have done nothing to help these people, but it is not a question of who is a better person or would be a better president. If the election was rigged, as it appears to have been, then Kenyans were robbed of their voice, their vote, and their hope. We hope to see the leaders do something to heal this country now. There are other countries with election drama right now besides Kenya, namely Georgia and Pakistan. I know Denmark's election has passed but my personal hope is that at home in America , when people are voting in upcoming primaries and in the 2008 election, they look around at what people in these other countries are fighting for and do not take their freedoms for granted.

Happy Election Day, to my fellow Americans.  I hope you enjoy your voting experience, knowing that you will not be persecuted in any way...your family will not be threatened or intimidated or harmed...your church will not be burned...and your vote will be counted.  It might not be a perfect system, I know, but millions of people the world over are envious of it.  

God Bless America...get out the vote!

LMW

November 5, 2012 - Writing Contest

Good morning.  Hope you had a nice weekend.  We spent a lot of time at the beach which was really nice.  Grace is turning into a little fish and Noah is slowly warming up to the ocean.

I wanted to let you know that I recently entered a writing contest for expat bloggers.  I had to submit a minimum of 1000 words related to expat life that I had never published on this blog before.  First prize is $500, second prize is $100 ... but 45 people entered so it is actually a tough contest!

In addition to considering the actual writing and topic of the blog, the judges are also considering the number of Facebook "likes" and comments made about the specific blog I wrote for the contest.  So, if you want to "vote" for me (and technically it is still election season until Wednesday, right?) you have until Saturday to do so I believe.

Go here:
http://www.expatsblog.com/contests/6/family-rules to read my blog entry.

At the bottom you can "like" it or share it on Facebook or tweet it or write a comment.

Thank you, in advance (and for spreading the word to help me get more "votes"!).  
I really appreciate your support of me and this blog.

Have a great day.

LMW

November 3, 2012 - The Three Men

I’m an early riser and normally commute to work an hour before everybody else. I pass a big intersection every morning and almost every morning I see the same three people reading the newspaper there. Now, three people standing and reading the newspaper is not that outstanding in Africa; however, these people stand out.

They have a few things in common. They are all waiting for traffic to build up to begin their work day, they are all there early, and the following two morning hours is quite significant for all of their work.

Guy number one is maybe not surprisingly a newspaper salesman. He is carrying about 30 newspapers and is waiting for the traffic to build up (read: slow down) so people have a moment to buy the daily news from him through their car window as they commute to work.

Guy number two is a traffic policeman in a cool white uniform waiting for the traffic to build up so he can direct it and ideally ensure order on the road together with about 10 other policemen on that main stretch going into town.

Guy number three is a young smartly dressed man on crunches. He is missing one leg and is waiting for traffic to build up to walk down the long lanes of traffic to ask drivers for a little money for his daily bread.

Sure enough, almost every morning these three guys are standing reading the news and sometimes cracking a few jokes.

KW

November 2, 2012 - Trick or Treat

The Ladybug and The Dragon

(Friday evening trick-or-treating at a little school party)

(cameo appearance below by Mama - work with what you've got - dressed as "the color orange")

Hope you had a Happy Halloween (if it is a holiday where you live!)!
LMW

October 28, 2012 - Counting in Kiswahili

Grace can count to 20 in Kiswahili now, all by herself from memory.  

If you've ever wanted to learn, just watch this video and she'll teach you.  

(although she skipped 17 and 18...sorry!)

LMW

October 27, 2012 - Chicken Pot Pie

So we have once again descended further into the world of "it won't be like this when you move back home..." by hiring a cook again.  You might remember Syprose from our Nairobi days.  She came one day every week, did a big shop and then made 6 meals that we would freeze and eat throughout the week (all for the hefty price of $12.50 a day).  And while we have been really happy to have only one staff person here in Dar (trusty Rose, that is), I do really miss having someone help with the cooking.  Rose occasionally makes us African food for dinner, which is nice, but just a few times a month.  She is too busy with other responsibilities to be a full time cook - but so am I (considering how long it takes to do everything here)!  So our new guy, Kennie, works at a local restaurant during the day - within walking of our house - and comes to us 3 evenings a week to make dinner.  We plan menus, I shop, he cooks.  

He is more expensive than Syprose ($27 a week) BUT is also a better cook than she was with a lot more experience (he used to work at luxury safari camp and some restaurants and for other expats) AND he is so low-maintenance (which Syprose was not).  He and Rose get along really well and he is teaching her to cook many of the dishes he makes.  He makes really fresh food and seems to be honoring our preferences really well.

I think he has made 10 meals for us so far this month and they have all been really good.  His BEST meal so far was pot pie - chicken for me, vegetarian for Kristoffer.  It was the most delicious chicken pot pie I have ever eaten.  It was so good that I was incredibly sad when the meal was over and I haven't stopped thinking about it since Thursday (tonight we had carrot soup with salad and homemade bread rolls-also delicious!).  We are really happy that we hired him because it is nice to get a break from our usual meal cycle, and when I start working again next week it will make my life a lot easier. 

Yeah for Kennie!  And here's to enjoying the perks of this lifestyle for as long we can :)

LMW

October 22, 2012 - Morning Commute to Work

It is 6:15am – the sun has risen behind the grey clouds and something incredible is about to happen on Mkadini Rd in Dar. He, the Incredible Kris, was born for this.

The Incredible Kris (TIK) glanced to the sky while he closed the gate to his house. The start button is pressed on his mobile and the timer starts counting catching every hundredth of a second. With tremendous force TIK engages the pedal on his newly acquired mountain bike. The lightweight body aluminum rims, shimano gear and disk brakes should enable TIK to break the legendary commuting time record. His is off on the first nicely paved road, conveniently inhabited by the former Minister for Roads. TIK triple checks the traffic on a larger cross road which enables him to jump the first stop sign at lighting speed. Four African (as in large) speed bumps are sufficiently mitigated by the front wheel suspension. A small group of people walking on the road are avoided by a few inches as TIK jumps down a small hill to meet the beat up dirt road stretch which, with the help of heavy rain and gravity, has large parallel bumps. TIK forces the bike to progress over this challenging terrain without compensating on speed.

As the Oysterbay Secondary School is passed children in uniforms notice flaming lines following with wheels of TIK as, with much dexterity, he avoids the minefield of deep pot holes in the tarmac. When passing Trinity Hotel, where he stayed during his first week in Tanzania, a fellow biker appears in front going at a much, much slower speed. TIK passes the biker who almost stops in awe of such eminent velocity. A bajaji is the next victim of TIK. As it is slowing down with a possibility of a right turn, TIK moves to take over this vehicle which best can be described as three-wheeled scooter taxi with a roof. Will he get on the inside or outside? TIK moves to the outside but a large oncoming Toyota Landcruiser forces a last minute change of plan as the bajaji is passed on the inside. Reaching Coco Beach TIK finds the dirt track between the main road and the beach. Many commuters regret seeing their car being passed by a bike on the side dirt path as morning traffic builds up lining up two straight rows of bumper-to-bumper cars. TIK gets a glimpse of the sun rising over the ocean and the usual 25-30 larger container ships waiting to get into one of the most inefficient ports in the world (FYI USD 20,000 per ship per day). If he could look further TIK would see the island off of Tanzania, where significant offshore gas reserves were recently discovered.

A lonely biker ahead breaks down to cross one of four small trenches disposing water from the main road. TIK catches up to the biker just at the crossing of one of these trenches. Kris changes direction and with a nifty move jumps over the trench at the widest spot and races to cross the main bridge going in to town. Now on Ocean Road TIK is on the sand between the coconut salesmen and the beach. On the narrow path a man is walking, which allows for optimal speed. He apparently refused to step aside into the grass as TIK races towards him: “Want to play chicken?” (No, Mary, he did not!)

Out of the sand and down the last stretch, TIK is welcomed by a nicely paved road, which cuts through the Gym Khana Golf course. Every muscle in his body begs to stop as the Incredible Kris sprints the last 500 meters with the aim of flying at the end (flyv og vind!).

Start to finish: 17 minutes and 48 seconds, and more importantly only 13 hundreds of a second.

KW 

October 21, 2012 - www.expatsblog.com

I have a guilty admission to make.  I was checking the traffic "stats" for this blog on Friday when I noticed that a lot of readers were getting to the blog through the website http://www.expatsblog.com.  Somehow unbeknownst to me, I have been included on this expat blog directory as a "top blog".  Now granted, there are no other Tanzanian blogs on their list - so maybe I am just the only one they have found - but someone had to like the blog enough to get me on that list, right?

On December 15th they will award Gold, Silver and Bronze awards to the top 3 blogs in each country.  I wonder if they give out awards at all if there is only one nominee in the first place?  Maybe I have a chance of "winning" then!  And, actually, one of their criteria includes the reviews/comments people make about the blog.  So if you want to help me "win", you could go here and leave some love for this blog by scrolling to the bottom of the page and submitting a comment/review.  Thank you so much   in advance (and if I win, I will buy you a drink the next time I see you...).

Anyway...like I said...this is a guilty [read: good for my ego] admission.  But I am still happy that somebody out there in the virtual world thinks there is something worthwhile here in my virtual diary of our African adventure. 

Keep reading! 

LMW

October 20, 2012 - Settling in at Work

When leaving a fantastic job with meaningful responsibilities, daily wins and some collegial respect it can be hard starting any new job.  For the last 8 months or so I have been the new guy at the end of the knowledge line; the wrong end that is. Over the last months I have been assisting, supporting and assisting again. However normal this is, it is absolutely painful and when adding up my real contribution over the last 6 months (what wouldn’t have happened if I wasn’t there), I can now at last point to one little thing.  I wrote a piece in the newspaper and it is also posted here.  

KW

October 19, 2012 - FAQs

I will not sugar coat the truth that I am having a difficult reintroduction to my normal life after being home last week and Kyle's death. It is wonderful to be with my husband and children again; less wonderful to be away from my siblings and parents and cousins and aunts and friends.  But I thought I would blog about something else in an effort to distract myself (and, perhaps, you).  

When I was home people asked me a lot about living in Tanzania and there were some common questions that I thought I would share here, in case you are also wondering the same.  I think some of these I have addressed in other blogs, but maybe in too verbose a manner.  As Mrs. Walker taught me back in elementary school, I'll try to K.I.S.S.  [K.I.S.S. = Keep It Simple, Sweetie]

FAQs about Life in Dar

1.  Is it really THAT hot?

Yes.  Hot and humid. From now until May. July and August were beautiful months of perfect, non-extreme summer weather...also known as "winter".

2. Do you sleep under mosquito nets?

Yes.  All of us.  Always.  Malarial mosquitos bite from 10 pm to 4 am, so as long as they are not inside your net you are not very likely to get malaria.  Of course there are exceptions.

3. Do you like it better than Nairobi?

Please remember that, although we were ready to leave Nairobi, we mostly liked living there.  And we do also like it here.  Security is marginally better.  Health care is marginally worse.  Weather is "worse" here. Access to the beach is better.  Kids going to a Danish school is amazing.

4. How's it going with Rose?

I don't blog about Rose too much anymore because I think she might occasionally read the blog [if you're reading this...HI ROSE!] and I don't want her to feel exploited.  But it is going very well.  We are so grateful that she moved with us.  She is good at her job (both housekeeping and nannying) and really loves our kids, and it is NEVER a bad thing to have more people in your kids' lives who love them!

5. What is Charles doing now?

We hear from him occasionally (most often through Rose).  The goats my parents bought him have multiplied and are doing well.  His wife is teaching with the degree we helped her get.  Charles has a job that we helped him get working for a Dutch guy's business and family.  

6. Does Grace speak more English or Danish?

She still speaks more English at home, but is definitely bilingual. She does not speak English when she is at school or with her friends from school. She can switch either language on or off with ease, and I've noticed she is speaking more Danish to Noah lately.  She knows a bit more Swahili now as well and because of other children and teachers at school she understands (and speaks a little) some Norwegian and Swedish.  Actually she is really good at song lyrics in all of those languages.  It's awesome.

7.  When are you moving back home? [and, one might add, what home are you moving back to?]  We don't know when or where, just yet.  If we had to give our ideal plan it would be to be in Dar for another year.  Then to "do" Kristoffer's third year on this contract with the World Bank in Washington, DC (which is probably a long shot, but I said this was our ideal!) and then get another contract to stay there for awhile longer. We would love to buy our own house in the DC area.

Hope that cleared up some of your questions.  Are there any others?!

LMW

October 11, 2012 - Eulogy

My nephew Kyle would have been one month old yesterday, but he passed away at 27 days old. About the time my airplane touched down Kyle's symptoms worsened slightly...and I arrived at the hospital about 90 minutes before he passed away.  When I met him I sang to his sweet, beautiful face...

...this little light of mine...I'm going to let it shine....this little light of mine...I'm going to let it shine...this little light of mine...I'm going to let it shine, let it shine, let it shine, let it shine...

Shortly after that Kyle had a pulmonary embolism (blood clot to his lung) and crashed.  Christine, Kevin and I were with him when he died.  I don't know why Kyle waited for me...I don't know why he wanted me there...but I know that he did. And we all know that his suffering and pain are finally over. He was brave beyond what was asked of him...fought harder than he should have had to...

Rest in peace now, sweet baby boy.  Your life was a small, brief gift.  A blessing to your parents, your sister, your grandparents, your aunts and uncles and cousins, and their friends.  Your fight....your brave, brave fight...touched people all over the world, and inspired an outpouring of love and faith that I can only pray will provide your parents with a light blanket of comfort in the coming days.  You have been and always will be loved, Kyle. So deeply loved. Please watch over us...please be with us...please take care of us, sweet angel.  I know that your little light is shining brightly in a place far better than here.  

Amen.

Auntie Lisa