Showing posts with label African Insight. Show all posts
Showing posts with label African Insight. Show all posts

Thursday, June 29, 2017

June 29, 2017 - After Africa

Fourteen years ago today, my sister and her neighbor comically set me up with a cute European guy who was working at their town YMCA for the summer.  We met over watermelon and beer, and when he said he wanted to visit Boston for the first time, one of them told him, "Lisa will show you around!"  When he came over a few days later to plan our Boston visit, my sister said, "So, you guys are going to the movies tonight?" I have maybe never blushed like that before in my life, and we ended up seeing Jim Carey's "Bruce Almighty."  I wasn't exactly a desperate spinster at the age of almost-23, but there was something about him that immediately felt special, different, right.  I am good at holding on to people in my life, and I knew pretty quickly that he was someone I never wanted to let go of.  The next four years of long distance until our eventual wedding day were emotional, complicated, incredible.  I was devoted to teaching high school in New York City - an intense job that I loved intensely - and Kristoffer was finishing up his graduate degrees before moving to Washington, DC.  Right after we were married, we moved to Kenya.  And then we moved again to Tanzania.  And life has now brought us to Maryland.  It is profound to think of all of the small and big decisions that brought us to those places, and how even one or two different decisions could have landed us, together or individually, elsewhere.  It all goes back to watermelon and beer. Although I know my sister takes the credit.  

So now that you've read all of my "wrap ups," it is time for me to say goodbye to this blog.  A couple of people have asked me what else I have been doing this last year, as I have already written so much about everyone else.  I intentionally did not try to find work, because I needed to get everyone settled, make our house a home, and adapt to life without staff (no joke).  And I did all of that!  The four times Kristoffer traveled it was for 2-3 weeks each time, and that was something else to get used to.  As I am a woman who needs other women (don't we all?!), I've been working on making friends and figuring out where I fit in here in our new community.  I will admit, in some ways that process has been easier and faster to do in my home country/culture than in Kenya or Tanzania as a foreigner sussing out other foreigners.  But in other ways, it has been a different challenge to "break in" because people here are settled and have established social lives, without the normal "filling friendship vacancies" that expats constantly need to do. I've made friends through the kids' elementary school primarily and these women are the mothers of our kids' friends, they are neighbors, Brownie and Soccer Moms, go to our church, or are in my book club!  I have met so many wonderful and kind women, and it is great to feel that I have found my proverbial "village" here.  I am also starting to consider part time consulting work for the fall when Aya goes to her nursery school five days a week. I'm ready to dust off parts of my brain that have been hiding in far off corners for awhile. We've tackled moving and living overseas and having three babies there.  Now I'm ready to tackle "American part-time-working-mom" a bit if I can find something that is a good fit.

People often ask me what I miss.  I usually say that, other than missing individual people, I greatly miss the diversity of expat life - living in a different culture and being surrounded by different languages and perspectives all the time.  In Grace's first grade class of 22 students, there were 15 different languages spoken at home.  I miss that.  And I miss the schools our kids went to - we seemed to have found "the right" school for each child at the right time and they were each very special.   Also, the beauty of East Africa.  The honesty of it.  The "in-your-face"ness of it.  Even the hard stuff...sometimes I miss that too.  

It is easy to identify what I don't miss as well.  The kids being sick all the time, worrying about malaria or other diseases, little relief from the heat, and inconsistent utlities (water and power).  The intricacies of managing people working in your home (even when you depend on and really like them, it's stressful!).  Being a target, more or less all the time, and being asked for more and more and more, when you're already being more generous than you can be.  That gets exhausting. I also don't miss the anxiety.  In hindsight, I think I probably should have been taking some kind of anti-anxiety medication for the last many years.  It was not paralyzing, but it was strong.  I had a lot of anxiety around emergencies - what if one of us got really sick and couldn't be medivac'ed in time?  And when Kristoffer would travel, it would be worse.  I hated driving off our little peninsula in case of a car accident when he was out of the country.  I felt the burden of not having any family around should something happen to me when he was away.  My anxiety is significantly better since we moved back, and that is a huge relief.

While the kids aren't babies anymore, this blog has largely served as their "baby book." We have a wonderful life that I am grateful for everyday.  It is not perfect, but it is really good.  Having seen up close the other side of the spectrum, I hope to always be humble and empathetic and generous to others when I can be.  To say that I've learned a lot about the world in the last decade would be a drastic understatement.  I like to think that I am more open-minded, more tolerant, more forgiving  (although that European guy I met 14 years ago might not agree!), but it is also possible that I am more cynical and jaded too, although we might have gotten out just in time to avoid any permanent damage.  At the very least I am more knowledgable, and I will appreciate that knowledge for a long time to come.

It is apropos that Jeffrey Gettleman, our friend, Pulitzer Prize winner and New York Times now-former East Africa Bureau Chief, just published his book last month, called Love, Africa: A Memoir of Romance, War and Survival*.  It is an incredible read, made even cooler because I've never known the author of a memoir before.  Particularly for me, his descriptions of Kenya and the region during the time we lived there were poignant.  He brilliantly articulated many feelings that I can strongly identify with and there was a certain magic to reading a memoir that I connected with so personally.  His book made me feel deeply grateful for our time in East Africa and also relieved that it is over.  While we did not face nearly the level of intimacy, danger or intensity that Jeffrey and his wife Courtenay experienced, in this last year since we left I have walked around feeling that we did, indeed, survive something big. 

Speaking of Jeffrey Gettleman, we were emailing back and forth a bit in December and he asked me if we were missing Africa or not.  Part of my response to him is the right way to close this blog.  We are here now and life is good; I'm a person who leans towards happiness. But it is also true that, as I wrote to him, "I'll be missing pieces of Africa forever."

Cheers to that, and thank you for reading!
LMW

(*Note that Jeffrey Gettleman did not ask for, nor does he need, this book review, but really - if Africa is at all an interest of yours, you should read his memoir.  If you've ever fallen in love with a place or with a person?  If you've ever had a dream and done everything you could to make that dream come true?  If you're just a person who's not perfect, but you're trying to be a better version of yourself?  Read it! Read it! Read it!  It's really very powerful and, and you might even just fall a little bit in love with Africa too. Jeffrey Gettleman will now be reporting for the NYT as South Asia Bureau Chief based in India.  We will miss his East African stories, but look forward to following his next assignment.)
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Monday, June 12, 2017

June 12, 2017 - Ready for Closure

Hello again!  Remember me?  I know, I know…it’s been far too long.

I last blogged after a wonderful weekend away in Kenya with my Nairobi Mom gang last year– we had a sweet reunion and I went into our final weeks in Tanzania completely refreshed.  Emotional as ever, but refreshed and ready to face becoming an Ex-Expat. 

There were so many wonderful moments and events to go through as we said goodbye to Dar.  Play dates on the beach, goodbye parties, and “lasts” of every kind:  last days of school, last days at the DYC, last pizza night, last days out with friends, last moments with our staff.  I even had a first and last unpleasant Dar car accident with 11 days to go.  Lucky me to get hit by one of Tanzania’s most notoriously corrupt businessmen who, needless to say, behaved terribly in the aftermath.  (The timing and trauma of it overshadowing our last week in Dar was almost poetic....almost).

But it’s taken me awhile to figure out why I didn’t blog about any of it.    I meant to.  I wanted to.  I started to, at least a dozen times.  There were so many things to write.  But…for some reason I just couldn’t do it.  I could say that it was because I didn’t have time, and that would be true, except I know that’s not why.  There was too much in my head, and too much in my heart.   I just couldn't actually get it all out.

As you know, I’m a sentimental person.  I treasure keepsakes and mementos. I honor anniversaries and milestones.   I hoard memories like they are canned food before a storm.   This blog was always a way to help me process my life when I felt far away from my life – wanting to be in both places at once - if that makes any sense.  But for some reason our move, which was not only leaving Tanzania, but also leaving Africa, was more than I could process, even with my normal blog-writing coping mechanism.  For a person who never dreamed of Africa, I certainly grew quite attached.

So I’ve taken the year, and in five days it will be a year since we left, to process on my own.  It has felt weird, but necessary. In the year that I’ve stopped writing, I’ve received many messages from people who felt really sad.  One person wrote to me, “I watched you have all those babies and your family grow.  And now you’re just gone!  How are you all doing?”  Another person told me in person that she missed us!  One other person wrote that it was like I stopped talking right in the middle of a sentence.

How lovely and sweet for people to feel invested in the story of our little family that I have told over the years.  Thank you for that.  And I’m sorry if I let you down.  I am a person who needs closure and I am now ready to have it, for myself and for anyone reading along. 

In the next week I’ll be posting my final blogs.  Blogs about our last days in Tanzania, and our first days in America.    Blogs about how we are now.  I’m finally ready to do it.  I’m crying the whole time, mind you – I still cannot separate myself from the emotion of leaving.  But as I told Kristoffer last night, I am ready to accept that we are here now.  And, even more so, that we won’t be there again.

Thank to those of you who have read this space for so many years, or for those who just popped in every now and then.  Thank you for indulging my verbosity, my naïveté, my figuring it out as we go, perhaps even my arrogance or conceit, to think that I ever had anything to write that people would want to read.  But I mean, there were some really cute baby pictures in there, right?   I needed this space and perhaps this year has been a bit of mourning for the loss of it as well.    So let me get to it…the blogs will be coming out over the next week and you’ll know when I’ve finished telling this story.


LMW

Tuesday, May 10, 2016

May 10, 2016 - Travelling with Toddlers in Tanzania

A few months ago I was invited to write a guest blog post over at Roasted Montreal and today is the day that my specific post is up!

This was flattering because, as you know, I've been pretty awful at blogging consistently since Aya was born and the fact that another blogger likes my blog and my writing enough to ask me to pop over to her place...well, let's just say that came as a surprise to me!  So thanks to Michelle at Roasted Montreal for seeing some potential in sending people over to Tanzania on vacation with their toddlers.  It would definitely not be your "easiest" trip with little ones to come here. Eeek!  The travel time alone to get here from most places is enough to make a staycation sound super exotic. Unless you were coming to visit some specific people that you love in this place...then the extreme travel part of it might be worth it.  I think my post, the first in her current series on travel with toddlers, was used as more of a "dream" trip to take with toddlers...but once you're here and you're used to the heat and the malaria risk and the really-don't-drink-the-water, etc...it's a pretty cool place to hang out.  

I am hesitant to broadcast my guest blog too widely for fear that everyone here will have strong opinions about what I did and did not include/recommend in the post.  There were limitations, of course, and there is no way to capture everything in one blog!  So I tried, based on my own experiences and perspectives which have been and are, no doubt, quite different than other people's.  But I hope Michelle gets some positive response and that people will enjoy a bit of a vacation day dream. 

To new readers to the this blog who might have come here by way of Roasted Montreal...thank you for stopping by and I hope you see something you like.

More news is coming soon on our relocation plans to America!  We've got less then 6 weeks to go here in Dar, which is pretty hard to believe...even when I see it in writing!

If you've already been patient enough to hang in here with me this long, hang in just a little longer...
LMW

Wednesday, March 9, 2016

March 9, 2016 - Danes in Dar and Our Saadani Safari

Well, as usual, I'm quite behind on our blogging.  But we did recently (in February!) have a wonderful 3-week visit with Kirsten/Farmor/Mor and Martin, our 15-year-old nephew, who came from Denmark.  It was Kirsten's 7th visit to us in East Africa and Martin's first.  It would be an understatement to say that the kids were happy.  Grace and Noah LOVE being around family, so they were just thrilled. We were brought so many kind, thoughtful, generous presents and "tastes" of Denmark...it felt like Christmas!  Perhaps the thing we didn't expect quite so much was that Aya fell completely in love with Martin!  Even now, a few weeks after they have gone, she still asks almost every day, "Where's Martin? Where's Farmor?"  When you tell her, "they had to go back to Denmark," she says, "Ohhhhh, Denmark!"  




We were not so great at taking pictures, admittedly, but had a lot of great moments with our guests.  Kristoffer and I took Kirsten and Martin to Indian Bingo and to an Ethiopian restaurant for some new kinds of food.  We visited both IST swimming pools and the Dar Yacht Club a few times for pizza and breakfast, swimming and kayaking.   Unfortunately, as the tide was coming in a big wave  landed Kristoffer, Grace and Martin in a bed of sea urchins when the kayak flipped over.  Grace got a bit scared and had a few small thorns in her foot from the sea urchins, but luckily we got them out just fine.  Kristoffer managed to get one bad cut (which he later learned should probably have had a stitch!) and a couple of thorns, also which came out without too much trouble.  But poor Martin, just having arrived in Tanzania, managed to get MANY big thorns in the bottom of his foot, and had to have them sort of dug out by a doctor as they were becoming infected (note that this is VERY painful!).  And then he had to take a week of antibiotics!   We felt horrible! 
Idenify that foot!

Their visit to Dar happened to coincide with "Language Week" at Grace's school...which was a week full of activities to celebrate and embrace the language diversity at IST.  In Grace's class of 22 students alone, there are 15 different languages spoken!


Farmor was a greatly appreciated grandparent volunteer on two different days that week, doing some Danish language activities with the native Danish speakers (pictured below) as well as all first grade students (mostly not Danish speakers).  Many teachers noted that she was wonderful and clearly a teacher herself, and the kids loved their "lesson" with Grace's Farmor (who also brought them Danish candy!).  Grace was super proud of her Farmor...what great timing!





Should you be interested, here is a slide show highlighting IST's language week:


Kirsten and Martin did the Afriroots city bike tour through different parts of Dar es Salaam, to give them a feeling and understanding of everyday life for regular Tanzanians (not the expat bubble we live in!).   They did a bit of shopping around Dar and sampling of our nicer lunch/coffee spots, and they did a day trip to one of the small islands just off the coast of Dar.  Given Martin's teenager-ness, he also did his fair share of "sleeping in" as well, and playing with the kids and driving around picking people up from school (story of my life).  

We attempted to take them on a safari and were partially successful.  Saadani is a small national park straight north of Dar es Salaam that is uniquely located right on the coast.  So we planned to drive up (only 4 hours and possible in a non-4x4 vehicle) and spend 3 nights enjoying both the beach and the wildlife.  We had many great moments together on that trip - but there were also quite a few mishaps, in typical "Welsiens-on-holiday" style.  Our mishaps included:

  • The bridge you normally drive to cross a river to get to this park was flooded/damaged and impassable.  So we had to drive around an extra 2 hours.  2 extra hours in the car with kids (toddler included) is always fun!
  • Kirsten got stung by a jellyfish of some kind!
  • Our beautiful, lovely rooms on the ocean had no A/C, which we knew, but also NO FANS, which we didn't know.  The first night was so unbelievably hot with no breeze...nobody could sleep well...and Aya, wearing nothing but a diaper, was a slippery eel when you picked her up. It was a horrible night!
  • The park itself is very small and doesn't have so much game to see.  We knew that it was not as populated as the bigger parks, but we did not know how few the animals were.  Shame on us, we had not done our homework properly.
  • On our second game drive - only Martin, Grace and me with our guide! - our 4x4 vehicle broke down just before sunset.  They were not able to fix it or get us another vehicle for our final day (2 more game drives), so we went home one day early.  Bummer!
  • Noah began to be sick with tonsilitis and Grace was fighting a virus, so on the last night and morning, both of them had fevers and Noah generally felt bad.  Of course! He always get sick when we go anywhere!
So that all makes it sound worse than it was, because we did have some great moments as well - captured below.  I will say that both the food and the customer service where we stayed were excellent.  And in our experience, it is pretty rare for the food to be excellent at a lodge in Tanzania!  Martin, Grace and I got to see a lot of elephants...we just wish he had been able to see more "big" game!

Our 4x4
A school group also touring the park...
Welcome drinks at our lodge...
A private, beautiful beach!











We had two of these "rooms"...lots of stairs, but otherwise super cool!
The view from our room...

Waiting for dinner just before sunset.
And some game.  Baboons...more skittish than we're used to.
Water buck.  A beautiful antelope for sure.



Buffalo!



Warthogs.  AKA Pumbas.
Reed buck, I believe.
Giraffe! Always a fave ;)


Tembo!





(My memory is fading but I think the baby elephant was less than 2 months old and was absolutely adorable!)



There are 6 wildebeest in Saadani, and we saw all of them!  A rarity!

Martin...super cool and brave to get out of the truck when it broke down.
Grace and I enjoying our quiet moment in the park.  She was super happy that we had not found any lions before the 4x4 broke down.  Luckily, we were rescued before it got dark so she didn't get too scared.
An early morning walk on the beach...


We absolutely loved having Farmor and Martin with us...we know it wasn't a "perfect" trip, but we hope they enjoyed it.  At least they excaped a few weeks of cold Danish winter, and Martin did go home with both of his feet, so that was a relief!

LMW